STAR TREK THE ORIGINAL SERIES
UNIFORM- STEP BY STEP

From this point I am assuming you have bought all the necessary
supplies...which should include,

 

The pattern Just a given
Lightweight velour 3 yards of division color or white dyed the division color
note: you might only use about half the fabric but it's better
to be safe than sorry..
Invisible zipper should be atleast 22 inches in length and as close to the
color of the fabric
Black Ribbing for the collar
Hook and Eye for the collar
Insignia & Braid Insignia can be purchased through Lincoln Enterprise. Braid
through www.costumecostumecostume.com

To be on the safe side..wash your fabric and dry it first for any shrinkage. Check with
your local fabric retailer for shrinkage..Velour has a tendency to shrink so be smart,
wear an undershirt, this helps with perspiration and keeps your uniform clean longer.
Although most people only wear thiers at Con's or Halloween, it is best to keep it in
a garment bag..If you must clean, take to a dry cleaners..

This tunic is a fairly inexpensive shirt to duplicate..you may want to make a couple:)
I attached small snaps to the insignia so it could be removed for cleaning.

THE STEPS:

Laying the pattern: FRONT
  1. Lay you fabric right-side up and fold inhalf . Place your pattern on top going right up to the fold line of the front part of the shirt..pin to fabric and cut..please pay close attention to the notches..these are your guidelines and assure that all ends will match..
  2. from the illustration on your right you can see what the front should look like after being cut and unfolded..seam allowance is included in the pattern..
BACK:
  1. Like with the front, the back is exactly the same..fold your fabric and place pattern on fold..pin and cut..
  2. The illustration to the left shows what the piece should look like once cut and opened..

 
SLEEVE:
  1. the sleeve needs 2 pieces..one for the left and one for the right..
  2. Make sure that you mark your sleeve with chalk to know which is the front and which is the back
THE MYSTERIOUS GUSSET...What is a gusset?..Basicly a panel allowing for curvatures to the
body.. usually diamond-shaped or triangular to provide expansion or reinforcement...Make sense?.

These were apart of the uniform and changed quite frequently..the reason...weight gain or loss..the gusset could pull in or be let out...

  1. You will need to cut 2 pieces..one for the left and one for the right..
  2. The center of the gusset as shown on the right is not to be cut..at all focus points there is small holes..these should be punched with an awl...
  3. best to use chalk and trace the gusset lines first..you may not need to use the center lines depending on your body type...
THE COLLAR
  1. This is the most complex part of the uniform in terms of fabric..In the original series the grain line was horizontal, it ran the width of the collar..most ribbing today is vertical which is acceptable...
  2. most package ribbing is already folded for you so lay your pattern on top placing on fold line..pin and cut

PRODUCTON:

  1. Sew both gussets to the front of the tunic
  2. Baste stitch on you machine the left side..(usually 5 stiches per inch)
    this is to get the uniform seams to align..you will be ripping out the left side once complete..
  3. sew all other regular stich which is usually 3 stitches per inch..
  4. sew back to front stitching on the gusset...
  5. at this point your tunic should look like the illustration below

THE SLEEVES:

  1. Sew the sleeve..it should look like the illustration on the right..I usually baste stich the ends of the sleeve so I can rip it open later once you measure length and to add the rank braid....
  2. Sew to bodice...using a baste stich for the front left side..once again..remember you are going to be ripping out the left front seam to install the invisible zipper..

 
FINAL RESULTS AFTER SLEEVES
COLLAR:
  1. Attach the collar by refolding to original shape.
  2. As seen in the illustrations to the left, the original pattern once measured has a tendancy to to look to bulky..so I altered the pattern with more of an angle...this gives you a more snug fit to your neck...
  3. Start by pinning, stretching the ribbing..allow for seam allownce by the left sleeve..
  4. Once you have pinned and got the ribbing stretched..you will find you have way too much..cut excess off leaving room for the seam..
  5. un-pin and sew edges.the ones you cut at an angle..
  6. re-pin..YES..pin, unpin, re pin..you want to get it right dont you???
  7. Sew then install the hook and eye's on the inside of the collar..make sure they line up right and there isn't big gaps between each hook,,I used 4 total.
original Pattern

My alterations
FINAL OUTCOME: If everything has gone right your tunic should look like the picture below..one final major step to this uniform...The Zipper...
  1. your uniforms left side front should be baste stiched all the way to the collar...rip it open 22 inches starting at the base of the collar...
  2. Install the zipper..
  3. It is a common mistake to think that the zipper disconnects and that it goes all the way to the bottom of the shirt..the zipper was installed for make-up purposes..allowing the actors to easily put on their costumes without messing up the makeup...

 
You now have a TOS tunic...hem and add braid then re-sew. Add your favorite insignia..remember..I used small snaps instead of sewing down..

ADDITIONAL TIPS:

  • When hemming..do it by hand and blind stitch barely nicking the tunic..this way you have no seam's showing on the outher part of your uniform..
  • Do the same whith the sleeves..

 

NOTE: the original series uniforms were a work in progress.especially with the gusset...many versions of this were seen through out the 3 seasons..mostly in Kirks tunic....The zipper..unlike what almost all people make
comes right up to the bottom of the collar..IT DOES NOT go all the way to the top
This includes all three seasons...Hook and eye were used to fasten the collar..this can be seen
in many endles pictures...